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Made in Japan - About TOKKOU materials


TOKKOU Made in Japan
The 2019 Spring/Summer collection is titled Shining in the Dark. We designed the collection in the hope that the wearer shines even while riding their motorcycle in the dark.

 
■ T-shirt & Long T-Shirt
Fabric name: Lyocell Cotton
Other fibres (lyocell) 50%, Cotton 50%
Soft to the touch and has a moderate sheen. Its texture is gentle and drapable.
Has high moisture absorption properties and has firmness, body, elasticity, and resilience.

Lyocell, unlike nylon and polyester, does not require petroleum for its production. It is a type of regenerated fibre made by dissolving eucalyptus in a particular solvent (a process called solvent spinning). Its round shape gives it strength, and reduces the shrinking quantity and decreases in strength when moist. Waste fluid during production never enters the local environment as the solvent is recovered and reused. This makes lyocell an eco-friendly material.

Lyocell and Tencel are the same material. The former was a trademark of Lenzing, an Austrian company, and the latter was a trademark of Courtaulds, from the UK. The two companies were merged in 2004 resulting in the renaming of the brand to Tencel and keeping lyocell as the generic name of the fabric.

■Hoodie & Sweatpants
Fabric name: High Dense Stitch Fleece Lining

By using high dense stitch fleece lining, the stitches line up neatly making the fabric look elegant. This makes for a luxurious and durable material.

Furthermore, our products use Excella, the finest zippers made by the Japanese zipper producer YKK. Each element of Excella zippers is carefully polished. This allows the zipper to move smoothly. Excella’s beautiful gold plating and selection of various element colours accentuate both clothing and bag products.

■Long-sleeve Shirts
Uses luxurious 80 yarn count poplin. The fabric’s warp and weft are of the same thickness, and it is plain-woven with the warp packed in twice as densely as the weft.

■Suits and Related Products
Fabric name: Canonico Super 110's
A luxury fabric mill that is based in the Biella region of Northern Italy. Founded in 1936, the mill exports their products to over 40 different countries across the globe. They spin, machine weave, and dye quality wool on site. Canonico fabric, known for its classic characteristic and high quality, is being used by top global apparel brands such as Hugo Boss, Burberry, and Armani (in Japan, by United Arrows and Beams).

The fabric is famous for its lightness, soft texture, gloss, and a great range of colours which is a distinctive characteristic of Italian-made textiles. The meaning of the term ‘Super’, seen in Super 110's and Super 120's, is often thought to indicate the of the thread – with higher numbers indicating thinner yarns resulting in a thinner and glossier fabric – but in reality, it shows the quality of the wool fibre.

The thickness of the thread is indicated by the yarn count. A yarn count of 100, 110, and 120 means a thread thickness of 18.5 microns, 18.0 microns, and 17.5 microns, respectively. Embroidery is used for suits and related products. The fabric is soft and supple, so a significant amount of technique is required to embroider a large design. Such quality embroidery is possible thanks to the skilled artisans in Kansai factories who carefully embroider each thread without applying excessive force.

■Denim
When making denim in Japan, one can do no better than using denim produced in Okayama, so we have opted to use denim produced in this region. Since the Edo period, Okayama has thrived mainly on the cotton textile industry. The area produces high-quality denim by continuously developing new techniques while embracing traditional skills handed down by previous generations.

Okayama Denim does not merely mean “denim produced in Okayama”, true Okayama Denim is produced by Okayama artisans who strive for quality in all aspects of the production process including dying and weaving.

The product shown here has not been crushed but has gone through one wash to show the characteristics of the fabric. It uses a lighter 8.5oz fabric.

 



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